Frequently asked questions

Yes. If you're buying a home to live in, a gift from family can cover your whole down payment. You'll need a short gift letter and a record of the money moving over. I'll walk you through that part so it stays simple.

As little as 3% down on a regular loan if you qualify, and 0% down on some VA and USDA loans. Put less than 20% down and a small mortgage insurance cost gets added to the payment. The calculator already builds that in, so the number you see is the real one.

No. The 20% rule is a myth. You can buy with as little as 3% down on a regular loan, and some buyers go in with nothing down on a VA or USDA loan. Putting less than 20% down just adds a small mortgage insurance cost to the payment, and that can drop off later as your equity grows. I’ll show you a few down payment options side by side so you can see the trade-offs.

Yes. If you're self-employed, I have programs that qualify you on your bank deposits instead of your tax returns. That helps when your write-offs make your income look smaller than it really is. Send me a few months of statements and I'll tell you where you stand.

Often the same day, once I have your basics. A real pre-approval, where I actually check your numbers, makes your offer a lot stronger than a quick guess from a website.

Pre-qualified is a quick estimate based on what you tell me. Pre-approved means I’ve actually verified your income, credit, and assets, so a seller knows your offer is real. In this market you want the pre-approval. It’s the difference between “I think I can” and “I’m ready to close.”

Most purchases close in about 30 days from accepted offer, and I can move faster when a deal calls for it. Being fully pre-approved before you shop is what keeps it smooth, because the heavy lifting is already done by the time you find the one.

A lot of programs start around 620, and you get the best pricing at 740 and up. Not there yet? Tell me your situation and I'll lay out a short plan to get you qualified.

Usually, yes. What matters is the balance between your monthly debts and your income, not whether you have debt at all. Plenty of my buyers close with student loans, a car payment, or a card balance. Send me your numbers and I’ll tell you exactly where you stand and what, if anything, is worth paying down first.

Plan on roughly 2% to 4% of the price for things like the appraisal, title, and lender fees, on top of your down payment. The good news: the seller can often cover a chunk of it, and some loans let you roll costs in. I’ll give you a clear cash-to-close number up front so there are no surprises.

Often, yes. It’s called a seller credit, and it’s a normal part of a lot of deals, especially when a home has been sitting. We can even use that credit to buy your rate down. I’ll help you and your agent structure the offer so you keep more cash in your pocket.

Yes, there are programs built for first-time buyers, including some that help with the down payment. They change often and have income limits, so the right one depends on your situation and where you’re buying. Tell me your price range and area and I’ll point you to what you actually qualify for.